Successful Painting Tools and Techniques

Successful Painting Tools and Techniques

This is a four piece series on painting tools and techniques. Here in the first part I will examine masking and protective gear. Later in part 2 I’ll examine ladders and scaffolding and in part three I’ll talk about brushes and rollers. Finally, in part 4 we’ll look at sprayers, caulk guns, wire brushes, braces and knee pads, and swivel hooks.

The painting industry has made tremendous strides in the last decade. Today there’s a tool for almost every situation. Even I’m impressed by the ground breaking devices coming on the market, for example, dripless caulk guns, that have solved a messy problem.

Before you start your project, have a minute to check your equipment. You’ll probably need to fill up on several items. Make a complete list of what you need. Keep an eye out for tools that save time and labor. The more costly equipment, such as sprayers and scaffolding, can be rented.

Top Rated Protective Gear

Some people don’t believe it’s necessary to wear safety gear when they’re painting. I guess they think it’s wimpy. But I’ve performed around enough toxins to comprehend how dangerous they could be. Dust, painting mist, and vapors impact the lungs very quickly, and skin pores are an available target for solvents and dust borne particles. Don’t be foolish… protect yourself.

Challenges Of Respirators

A particle mask is better than almost nothing, but it generally does not form a good seal and it won’t filter out all the dust. If you do use a particle face mask, get one with double rubber bands. A damp handkerchief tied around your face gives better safety than particle masks that use lightweight rubber bands.

Double cartridge respirators are the safest solution. They’ll provide you with the protection you’ll need for most vapors, mist, and dirt. Respirators come in three sizes. Make sure that yours fits. If it generally does not fit well, it will not work very well. Checking the fit of a respirator is like examining the seal of a diving mask. Breathe then hold your hand over the side valves. The mask fits if it presses against the face and remains there while you hold your breath. Good respirators cost from $25 on up and usually include replacement filters. Double cartridge respirators have color coded filters for different impurities; check that you have the right filtration for the job. Make sure to read the instructions, and remember that you should change the cartridges if deep breathing becomes hard or if you begin detecting vapors.

Learn About Protective Clothing

Respirators execute a good job of protecting your lungs, but you need to protect the rest of the body as well. Having been authorized in lead abatement, I understand that your body can only just eliminate a very small ratio of lead, even over a 30 year span. Many painters make the mistake of thinking that a little contact with particles or VOCs won’t damage them, but it all adds up over time. I always dress for protection, keeping at least one good Tyvek painting suit on the job. Tyvek breathes well, weighs little, and provides good protection. The extra layer is a little warm, but I’d rather wear a paint suit than be covered with dust or overspray (on a hot day be sure to drink a lot of water to prevent dehydration). If you choose not to invest in a painting suit, wear clothes that you won’t mind turning into something resembling a painting palette.

I almost always wear leather gloves, even though I’m brushing. They keep my hands clean and my grip dry. I take two pairs of gloves if I’m painting more than one color, to ensure I don’t contaminate the colors. Commercial strength rubber gloves are another must. I wear rubber gloves to stain, to wash out brushes, sprayers, and rollers; to open, mix, and strain paints; and handle toxins such as paint thinners.

Rounding out my paint anywhere clothing are safety glasses or goggles to keep chips, dust, and spray mist out of my eye, and, if I’m spraying, a hood. If you spray with out a hood, be prepared to spend tons of time washing paint out of your hair.

Fast And Easy Masking

Usually the area you’re painting will have a finished floor or carpet and the proverbial ounce of prevention can save the day. Even if you’re only painting one inside home window, masking the floor is a good idea. Having an open can of paint makes me stressed if there isn’t a drop cloth on the floor. I’ve learned the hard way. Masking becomes even more important if you’re staining, because stain spatters all over the place. Several simple items can save you a lot of touch up, cleaning up, and attempting to get paint from the carpet before your spouse sees it. Before I finally quit and admitted that my approach wasn’t perfectly right and dripless, I spent more time touching up than I should have. Touching up is a fact of painting life, but these days I do significantly less of it because I take time to mask.

First, you need a drop cloth. Heavy cloth is often best, but drop cloths don’t have to be expensive, professional painter’s cloths. You can sometimes find pretty large drapes at thrift stores, for the cost of one thin plastic drop cloth. Search for drapes with vinyl backing, for added waterproofing. I cut out the top stitching for an additional 3 inches of material.

The difficulty with plastic drop cloths is that they weigh next to nothing and billow everywhere. Plastic material works best when you can find 3 foot wide paper (like the kind used for flooring insulation) to lie together with the plastic material. If I’m painting a big new home and I have to mask the whole floor, the plastic/paper masking system is inexpensive and is effective.

An excellent masking system is crucial whether you’re brushing, rolling, or spraying the paint. All you need is masking tape, paper for the outer edge of the floor and baseboard, and a thin layer of plastic material for the glass windows and furniture. 3M makes a good masking system that includes special painter’s tape and dispensers with pre-taped clear plastic. If you’ve ever before spent hours scraping tape adhesive off home windows, you can appreciate advanced masking tapes. Commercial masking dispensers are available at professional painting shops and sometimes at rental shops. If a commercial dispenser is difficult to find, simply buy a roll of heavy paper and use your wrist to carry the masking tape roll.

Some tapes need more stickiness for fixing plastic to rougher textures like walls. Other tapes need to come off without leaving adhesive on windows and smooth areas. Always wait at least four hours before removing tape to avoid tearing the paint. But don’t leave tape on for longer than a day or it’ll be hard to pull off.

Masking Floors Tricks

In addition to masking off the main areas to be painted, it is also good prevention to mask main traffic areas and wherever you plan to store and mix the paint. Distribute all the necessary drop cloths, then clean the areas you will be taping with vacuum cleaner, foxtail broom, or clean rag, to ensure a tight seal. As you mask, concentrate on getting a clean edge with the tape, and make sure the tape is solidly attached.

Tape and paper dispensers are ideal for masking off the outer edge of an area. They ensure a clean edge along the floor and minimize clean-up. I take advantage of shorter lengths of masking (1 ft. to 2 ft.) for corners and closets. On long, straight runs I favor going corner to corner with one long strip of tape, which reduces the amount of seams that should be taped. Once the perimeter is in place, I take advantage of drop cloths for the remainder of the floor. For greater protection, I always substantially overlap the masked perimeter with the drop cloth. On sides I also double the cloth to the inside, for extra protection and stability.

Obtaining a tight seal with a drop cloth is crucial if you are spraying a room, but safeguarding carpet or flooring with a sealed drop cloth is an excellent plan even if you’re just brushing or rolling. A drop cloth will move if it isn’t taped where it lies, and you’ll finish up on your knees cleaning paint off the floor.

Masking Walls And Fixtures Mistakes

Regardless of how you intend to apply the paint, you will have to mask permanent fixtures such as the ceiling lights, fans, and door knobs. Even though you have excellent hand control, cutting in (edging) the fittings that aren’t masked is frustrating, specifically for multiple coats of paint. To mask fixtures, pull off enough newspaper and tape to wrap the fixture, being careful to keep the tape just on the bottom of the fixture (newspapers also makes a good masking material for fixtures). If possible, release the fixture covers and wall mounts to paint under them; this ensures a seamless border.

The quantity of masking that you should do is dependent upon the type of house painting you will be doing. The only real time the wall surfaces need to be masked is when you intend to spray the ceiling and you need to keep the wall surfaces dry, for instance, if the ceiling is getting another color or finish. If the trim is clear coated or you intend to paint only the wall surfaces and ceiling, it’s wise to mask all over the trim, especially the windowsills.

How To Mask Windows

The sole time I mask windows is after I plan to spray. Taping glass windows isn’t very effective. It takes too much time and paint still gets under the tape, and masking tape has a knack for really adhering to glass.

For interior or exterior windows, I use the same system as for masking wall surfaces. Really the only difference is the fact that masking glass windows usually is faster than masking entire wall surfaces. Masking house windows and wall space is usually done with clear plastic, which lets light into the room and is also handy for covering large areas (paper is best for masking floor surfaces and trim). To measure plastic, I roll it out along the window, cut as straight of a line as is possible, and tape the perimeter of the windowpane. Then it’s simply a matter of sticking the clear plastic onto the exposed tape, working from the top down and being careful to keep it straight and level.

Masking paper also works well to safeguard windows, floor, and molding from paint spatters. To protect glass windows, apply masking paper over the top of the window casing. The width of the paper will do to block most of the roller spatter. This same technique protects the floor and molding. If you are assured about your brushing and rolling abilities use 1 ½ inch masking tape instead of masking paper.

No-Fuss Masking For Spraying

Spraying needs that anything not being sprayed should be completely masked. Because spraying requires such intensive masking, wait to mask until you’re prepared to spray. Outside surface spraying may need extensive masking, depending on number of colors and whether there are bordering buildings such as fences and electric power lines. When masking for spray, be sure you be detailed. Overspray is hard to regulate, especially under windy conditions. The more you’ve prepared for overspray, the better. The time spent masking is a lot less than the time you’ll have spent touching up afterward. A good seal with masking tape is crucial because sprayed paint gets almost everywhere. Overspray is similar to the casual drip from a brush every so often… one is certain to get from you, no matter how careful you are. Nevertheless, you can minimize overspray by double checking before you spray.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

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THE PURPOSE OF STAINS AND PAINTS PART TWO

MORE ABOUT STAINS AND PAINTS – PART II

This is part two of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

Interior Paints Coatings for Every Job

Did you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an inside ceiling, reasoning that it could last longer. It could last longer, but as I then found out when I had to touch up the ceiling only 2 yrs later, exterior paints will discolor on an inside surface. Exterior paints contain special additives made to withstand the outdoors. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry out to a durable, uniform surface finish.

Most of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. In fact, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in several areas: strength and elasticity, as well as ease of application, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, such as the Pristine brand created by Benjamin Moore, are made with no VOCs whatsoever. Today’s latexes are created with higher quality pigments and binders that provide them more body, so each goes on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a bit of recognition for interior applications, especially for walls and ceilings. Alkyds continue to be the professionals’ choice for trimming work because oil based paints are easier to paint on detailed areas like molding and trim. However, that traditional approach is gradually changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert’s Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, are introduced to the market.

Exactly What You Are Looking For – Exterior Paint Coatings

Moisture can be an important consideration for exterior paint selection. Every day a family group of four will generate several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Combined with naturally occurring humidity, this may mean a a large amount of moisture moving through the walls and siding. Water is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren’t sufficiently ventilated, water will migrate through the wall surfaces. Vapor barriers help contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to leave. The structure of a house, the sort of vapor barrier it has, ventilation, and humidity all make selecting the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you need a paint that will let moisture pass through the wood, so water doesn’t get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let moisture go through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don’t flex with areas that expand and contract, as wood does, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have significantly more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I favor using latex on all exterior surfaces, including wood siding, stucco, and masonry. Latexes resist fading much better than most oil-based paints, and they’ll cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go over an alkyd primer).

Latexes do a great job of covering cement. Despite its hardness, concrete is very porous, and oil-based paints don’t always stay well. For greatest durability, I recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that provides superior performance, I will choose it over an oil-based product that should be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only needs water. Thinners add one more expenditure, are hard to dispose of, and usually end up spattered on my skin or clothes, no matter how careful I am.

Improve Your Interior Staining

You may spend a life time learning about stains and sealers, but there’s nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in figuring out which stain to utilize is to become acquainted with the product lines available. Scan the label, along with any product information you can get, and talk to the personnel at a professional paint shop.

Exterior stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint and more solvents, giving them higher wood penetration. Waterproofing is important with exterior stains. Most include built-in sealants to increase sturdiness and help maintain the wood. The color in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface covering. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn’t penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That’s why a pigmented stain is often used along with a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to draw out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, which are much easier to apply, combine, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and bring out more of the wood grain. If you are looking for darker results, a dyed stain provides what you would like in one layer (be sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are extremely difficult to touch up. Every coating eventually will need touching up, so make sure to consider ease of maintenance in your selection of stains. You’ll get the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert’s Tonetic, Pittsburgh’s Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you wish to stay away from the watery nature of stains, try a gel stain, which had most of the liquid solvent removed. Gels are easy to use. They wipe on, dry out fast, and cover evenly. Since they’re colored with pigment, gel stains don’t penetrate that well. They’re a great choice for porous woods that are tough to coat evenly without a toner. Gel stains do a excellent job of showing off the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don’t recommend using them for hardwoods, which require a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

How We Improved Our Painting With Sanding Sealers

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You can use them under clear coats or on top of stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not designed to prime. They’re more like varnish, but diluted with solvents to allow better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers prevents them from soaking into the wood pores. Sanding sealer can offer a better bond for clear coats.

Shellacs are often added to sanding sealers to fortify the resin and provide an instant drying agent. They also add an amber tone, so if you are utilizing a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it won’t impact the stain. Shellacs tend to yellow aver time and contain toluene, which has a high VOC content. Shellacs are gradually supplying ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers also have high VOCs, although less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow drying alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac known as Rez 77-1. This specific primer/sealer is wonderful for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert’s Latex Sanding Sealer has very low VOCs, but is strictly for interior wood and must not be used under a water borne polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers can also be utilized to seal exterior wood, especially decking, which is continually subjected to sun and water. For color regularity in areas like decks, you need to completely coat, or back prime, the lumber before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer’s UV Plus, Behr’s, and most high end deck stains are excellent water repellent sealers that also can be used for priming outside wood.

Method for Wood and Stain Sealers on Interior Wood

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are added to the stain itself, applied as a top coat on top of a stain, or used as a clear coat on unstained wood trim. They can be used for just about any type of wood trim, including windows, doorways, and the casing around them. Although you can purchase stain/sealer combinations, they have a tendency to yellow, are difficult to maintain, and don’t last as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain natural oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that can be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to clean and maintain with soap and water followed by a wiped on varnish, which often keeps a wood surface looking ideal for years. Make sure there’s no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I favor using Hope’s Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance layer. Lacquer is a fast drying sealer that more often than not needs to be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost everything shellac does, but they’re simpler to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coat that permeates the wood instead of sitting on top of it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry quickly, with little smell and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have become such popular sealers is the fact that they don’t really require sanding sealers.

The odors associated with many paints and stains can be more than simply offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs provide a very hard coating but contain very high VOC levels. Water based sealers, like the stains, match the performance of several solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water based sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the most common VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water based sealers aren’t combustible, another advantage, but they still have sufficient VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do have a tendency to raise the grain. They’ll also harden or “flash off” quickly at temperatures higher than 60°F. The best working temperature for most water based acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a bit more slowly. In cases like this, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to finish the drying out process. A contractor I know once used water based latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only use it between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water based polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, and others.

Stains and Sealers for the Exterior

Because of their better penetration and sealing power, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel as they grow older, making them more challenging to maintain. A solid stain is similar to paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less and is also simpler to maintain as it ages. However, I favor oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. Some of the better stains on the marketplace include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer’s U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains will often have more solids than a typical outside stain, which make them more durable. I would recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what’s called a trans-oxide. Until lately, the major problem with outdoor stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for better protection. A higher end deck stain won’t require a different sealer overcoat, although you can include one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you believe extra protection is required to battle moisture and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for about $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Stay away from deck stains which contain silicone. Despite their low price, they aren’t a good deal. Advertisements for silicone stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water on the deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is actually the indication of a successful coating. However, silicone breaks down quickly, usually in just a matter of months, leaving a discolored, waxy coat that is a pain to remove. The broken down silicone also quits repelling water.

“High build” coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on outside siding, nevertheless they are too soft to be used on your deck. Removing these coatings calls for gallons of wood cleaner and way too much work.

Water based exterior stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, combine the advantages of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip less than oil based stain, and dry faster, enabling two coatings the same day. Water based stains have the resilience and flexibility of any latex stain, giving them lasting strength. They’re a great choice for most applications. However that cleaning up water borne stains calls for work. There are a couple of oil components in the solvent that have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your seller for specific cleaning guidelines for water based stains, and read the label.

When In Doubt, Ask

If you still have questions about which paint or stain to utilize, please ask people in the know. An experienced, proficient salesperson can answer any questions you might have. Choose a paint store with personnel having at least 10 years of experience in the business. Inquire further what has worked best for your unique application and ask to read a spec sheet on the merchandise in question.

The answers you get will depend on whom you ask. A paint store will attempt to sell you one their own products, after all, that is why they’re in business. Painting contractors may not be impartial, either. They need to sell their experience. I get tons of calls from people needing assistance with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don’t object to giving an hour of our time, but if you need in depth answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional analysis. Rates vary, but I usually charge about $60 for a written and oral analysis, depending on the driving time included. A paid analysis will tell you whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which finish might be best for finishing your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that warrant specific answers.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

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From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2021/05/the-purpose-of-stains-and-paints-part.html

Exactly What You Are Looking For – Paint Coatings for Every Job

Finally, Paint Coatings for Each Job

The right type of coating is vital. If you pick the wrong paint, it won’t matter how much effort and money you spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint jobs deteriorate quickly because poor quality primer and paint were used.

A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing coating. If you’re painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have all sorts of choices if the material is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider weather, maintenance, and durability to determine the best covering for the job.

No-Fuss Painting Using Primers

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the finish is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters about as much as which primers to use. Basically, you will need to use a primer when you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the sole time you don’t have to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To make sure of compatibility, choose something that’s part of your paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coating manufactured by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. If you don’t want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn’t available, ask to see what’s known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.

Primers form an even base for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top coatings end up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don’t make the mistake of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.

Usually in one coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coating of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The house pictured below is an example of a project where two coatings of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it a smooth base for the top layers. Some climates almost demand another coat of primer. I’ve heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. If you live near salt water, I would recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels rough. That’s because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for coats. (Here’s a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the top coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by lowering the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it is also handy for areas like bare drywall.)

Solution for Priming Interior Surfaces and Ceilings

I recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, such as the laundry room and bath, that require a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I’ve always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the sleeping rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new structures have satisfactory vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.

Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to make use of. If the home doesn’t have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall surfaces and keeps water from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers can be the response to priming wet rooms inside your home. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, cigarette smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh’s Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the features of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also functions as a stain killer and sealer, but I don’t recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what’s known as “good hold” or hiding properties, it will maintain an even sheen over primer. You are able to assure compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

With regards to walls, remember that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it’s new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn’t properly sealed. There are plenty of primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish that you’ve planned.

Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which case I’ll use an alkyd primer. (I know that there are perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old patterns are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps level over any sanding markings or roughness.

Method For Priming Interior Wood

When selecting primer, you should consider the type and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the kind of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost wetness in older wood. There’s also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you can’t prime all around the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect most of the trim from water. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your job has many different variables

Primers For the Exterior

Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still would prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I’ll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it is new), especially if I had access to the siding and trim before it is attached to the building. It’s always best to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to provide each piece its own vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a light detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you may need to hold back a day or two to let them dry out. There’s a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coatings. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. If the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coat, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

Amazing Primers For Metals

Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough contact with the area. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and may need more than just thinner. Consult with your paint store if you would like to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.

You can find primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert’s Effecto Spray Enamel, which I’ve experienced success using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be coated with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized metal can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.

Much like any layer, the more time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don’t flow much whatsoever and stay right where they’re applied, for good or for bad. A clean surface is particularly important when you use an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others recommend against using any type of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface “teeth” for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.

Method For Priming Masonry

Whether it’s inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 90 days before you prime and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and filled with lime, is an excellent surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it’s provided for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coat, but it’s important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I’ve had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for nearly all masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the curing time of concrete. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don’t forget a respirator, especially when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add drinking water to acid it’ll splash and burn off anything it contacts. And blend it in the correct ratio, usually one to three. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be a chore. It’s best to keep them well managed and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete flooring in really sad condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a new system called Peel-Away that makes prepping masonry a bit easier (it’s still no picnic). If the surface is in good condition, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I would recommend a concrete stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is the water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top covering like latex.

Older, pre-painted cement floors need to be repainted with a similar top coat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top layer requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I’d add Penetrol to the primer for an extended lasting bond.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

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From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2021/05/exactly-what-you-are-looking-for-paint.html

Facts to Consider When Hiring a Painting Contractor

Consider Finding a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always calls for some forethought beyond color selection and decorative themes. Painting a room is not difficult. In fact, it’s nearly the perfect do-it-yourself home improvement project. Nevertheless it is a task that places demands on your time, finances, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, ask yourself a few pre-determined questions.

• How much preparation will I need to do and will I have enough time to do it?

• Am I up to the difficult parts of the work, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a different skill, and can I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I be able to live with a house left unfinished if I am called away or when I must return to work after the weekend?

• Are there parts of the job I can do but simply don’t enjoy? Are there parts of the work I could do myself and parts I want to contract out?

If your answers to these questions make you decide to contract all or some of the project, then go about gathering bids and searching for a contractor methodically.

First, talk to friends and neighbors and get their tips about contractors they have used. Have a look at the quality of the work done for people you know so you can make sure the grade of the job meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the top contractors to go over the work you want to have done. Meet with each of them individually to look at the job and discuss the precise job details.

Questions for Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, and so forth), ask what will be done to get it ready for priming including which type and brand of primer. Then ask your contractor about the finish coat, like the type and brand of the paint, how it’ll be applied, its quality, and the number of coats. Make sure the contractor will use high quality paint. A quality acrylic latex paint might cost more initially, but its toughness will save money in the long run.

• For exterior work, ask what will be done to safeguard landscape plants. For interior work, learn how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can begin the job and exactly how long it will take. It’s also advisable to know what remedy will be available if the work is not completed on time.

• Discuss the guarantee on the job, how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and exactly what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will replace your costs if the contractor fails to complete the job. Insurance will cover any injury to any of the workers. Without such insurance, you could be liable for such injuries. Insurance could also cover damages done to your house.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for previous customers. Call some of the references and ask when you can see the contractor’s work.

• Get written estimates from at least 3 contractors. Be skeptical of any bids that are significantly higher or lower than the others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly close to each other for the same work. The estimate should break down material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before making your decision, consider the contractor’s demeanor. He or she should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning calls or arriving for a scheduled appointment. The contractor should take time to reply to your questions and explain details of the work.

Picking a Painting Contractor

Once you’ve selected a specialist painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the work (unless the bid or estimate had already been in contractual form). The document should spell out everything you have discussed with the contractor about your work. It should specify these things:

• the work to be achieved

• the materials to be used

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to stay on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the work with the contractor, making notes about whatever needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, etc). The contractor should correct the problems before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Best Painters Lake Stevens

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From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2021/04/facts-to-consider-when-hiring-painting.html

If You Want a Painting Contractor

When You Need a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always calls for some forethought beyond color selection and decorative themes. Painting a room is not difficult. In fact, it’s just about the perfect do-it-yourself house improvement project. Nevertheless it is a job that places demands on your time, financial limits, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, consider a few pre-determined questions.

• How much preparation will I need to do and will I have enough time to do it?

• Am I up to the difficult elements of the work, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a different skill, and may I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I have the ability to live with a house left unfinished if I am called away or when I have to return to work after the weekend?

• Are there areas of the job I could do but simply don’t enjoy? Is there parts of the work I could do myself and parts I wish to contract out?

In case your answers to these questions make you opt to contract all or a portion of the work, then start gathering bids and finding a contractor methodically.

First, talk with friends and neighbors and get their suggestions about contractors they may have used. Have a look at the quality of the work done for people you know so you can make sure the grade of the work meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the most notable contractors to discuss the work you want to have done. Meet with all of them individually to understand the work and discuss the specific work details.

Questions for Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, etc), ask exactly what will be done to get it ready for priming including which type and brand of primer. Then ask your contractor about the finish coat, like the type and brand of the paint, how it’ll be applied, its quality, and the number of coats. Make certain the contractor use high quality paint. A quality acrylic latex paint will cost more initially, but its durability will save money in the long run.

• For exterior work, ask exactly what will be done to protect landscape plants. For interior work, find out how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can begin the job and how long it will require. It’s also advisable to know what remedy will be available if the work is not completed as scheduled.

• Discuss the guarantee on the job, just how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will replace your costs if the contractor does not complete the job. Insurance covers any injuries suffered by any of the workers. Without such insurance, you might be liable for such injuries. Insurance may also cover damage done to your premises.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for previous customers. Call some of the references and ask when you can see the contractor’s work.

• Get written estimates from at least three contractors. Be wary of any bids that are significantly higher or less than others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly near to the other painter’s for the same work. The estimate should show material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before making your decision, consider the contractor’s demeanor. She or he should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning calls or arriving for an appointment. The contractor should remember to answer your questions and describe details of the work.

Choose a Painting Contractor

Once you’ve selected a specialist painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the job (unless the bid or estimate had already been in contractual form). The document should spell out everything you’ve discussed with the contractor about your painting. It should specify these things:

• the work to be done

• the materials to be utilized

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to stay on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures for making changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the job with the contractor, making notes about whatever needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, etc). The contractor should correct the issues before you make final payment.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Best Painters Lake Stevens

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From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2021/04/if-you-want-painting-contractor.html

Choosing Exterior Color Schemes

Exterior Colors

Much like interior painting, when exterior painting it is best to think in terms of sets of colors rather than solitary colors. However the activity is often more difficult because houses are often built of several materials that have different textures, such as hardwood siding matched with a natural stone foundation or a brick building with real wood trim. If you want to emphasize the difference in textures, paint each element another color.

The Picture as a Whole

When picking colors, note that two colors that could work well jointly as a siding and trim combo, may clash with the roof color or some other elements such as the deck or landscaping. So when picking colors, remember to factor in things you can’t, or won’t change, such as the roof covering material, the nearby landscape and plantings, any masonry work, and the color of your neighborhood friends’ houses.

Local Customs

When choosing a house color, consider the local customs in your town. It is ever more common for towns and communities to insist on some control over house colors. For example, in the holiday resort community of Hilton Head, South Carolina, residents must choose exterior colors from a limited palette of muted shades and even the stop signs have color limitations, whereas in the location of Charleston, there is a well-known district of pastel-colored houses called “Rainbow Row” where daring colors are welcome. Some planned communities can even fine you or make you repaint your home unless you use one of the accepted paint colors.

Testing Different Color Strategies

As with the interior color selection process, you could start choosing color positioning without actually painting anything. Trace or sketch an outline drawing of your residence and then make several photocopies to try different layouts. Use a pencil or highlighter and color your home’s features and experiment with several high-lighting alternatives. Determine which features you want to emphasize and which ones you would like to hide. The goal here is to create a well balanced whole where no aspect seems to dominate. By “pre-painting” in this manner you won’t only avoid any disappointments you’ll be inspired to try some distinctive schemes before you pick up the paintbrush.

Some paint stores have computers that will “paint” your home for you right on the computer screen. The better systems are equipped to scan a high-quality picture of your house. Or you can provide a high quality digital image. Even if you cannot get an exact reproduction of your property, these programs will provide you with a sense of what types or combinations are pleasing and demonstrate some ideas of how you may paint.

Now that you have selected the colors for your home it’s time to decide which colors should be assigned to specific architectural elements. Generally the siding is done in a single color, but if there is ornamental molding above the first floor, another color siding can be very interesting. Casings around windows and doors should all be the same color or the house will seem too busy. If there are ornamental highlights in your trimming and molding, several colors are fine if the pattern repeats on the whole house. Some Victorian homes can look healthy with six colors, so there is no firm rule.

One common fashion is to paint the window sash and trim a color that is lighter than the body of the structure. Shutters, if present, are usually painted darker than the home body. Obviously, fashions change. For example, at the turn of the century, gloss black was the most popular choice for the windows sash. Nevertheless, you almost never see gloss dark paint today except on shutters.

Highlight ornate trim work, below left, with eye catching colors.

Below are a Couple Tips for other Architectural Highlights:

Front Entry

Create a stunning effect with the addition of an accent color to this important element of your home. For example, a white house with a door decorated a bright color, such as red or green, pulls attention to the entranceway making the access seem more inviting.

Frieze

A historically appropriate treatment for the frieze is by using both the trim and body colors. Let the trim color to be the dominating one to draw a clear difference from the top of the siding. Take care not to introduce too many colors; you may end up with an impact that is way too busy.

Brackets (Corner)

Brackets need to be regarded as a component of the overall structure and should be painted in order to not appear that they are “floating free” of the framework. Use the principle trim color. Avoid using too much color. Some painters add a leading edge of scarlet to these features.

Brackets (Sandwich)

Sandwich brackets are a little different. Because they consist of several layers and are more complex than simple corner brackets, it is more suitable to use several colors. Paint the exterior parts to complement the trim and frieze, and the center another color to show off your scroll work.

Support Columns

When you have simple rectangular wooden posts on the porch, you probably don’t want to emphasize them with their own color. Paint them to complement either the entire trim or body coloring of your structure. However, if your posts have special millwork, such as a chamfer on the square post or a band on the turned post, it is quite acceptable to showcase these designs with a flourish.

Many people prefer to paint porch ceilings sky blue because they say the color mimics nature. White columns add a nice contrasting touch.

Rails

The rails are essentially extensions of the posts. Therefore, they are usually colored in the same color as the posts.

Verticle Railing Supports

Try painting the balusters a lighter color than the rails. When the posts and rails have been treated in the primary body color, try to use the trim colors to make sure they stand out. Even though you have elaborately worked balusters, don’t use way too many colors to demonstrate your handiwork. Aside from the timeframe that would be involved in detailing each baluster, the effect will look too busy.

Ceilings and Floor

Porches are painted certain colors not only for beautification, but as concerns of practicality. Light colored ceilings help maintain a sense of airiness and brightness. Painting porch ceilings blue is a technique that has been used for centuries to suggest the sky overhead. It is rumored to keep nesting insects, such as hornets, from settling in. When the undersides of your porch ceiling rafters are uncovered, you might paint them by utilizing a combination of the body and trim colors. A dark floor is even more functional since it shows dirt and tracks less readily than a floor painted in a lighter color.

Steps and Risers

The risers of wooden steps are usually painted the trim color, as the treads carry a surface (porch or deck) to the bottom and should be painted in the same color. The handrail and balusters on the steps should be colored to complement the porch rail and baluster color design.

Cement Foundations

Many properties have a ring of brick or concrete blocks below the siding. While it is fine to have this band the same color as the siding, a darker color makes the home seem securely planted and can hide dirt. Basement windows are generally decorated the same dark color to de-emphasize them.

A bright accent color, below left draws attention to this door.

Expert’s Tips:

There are many online paint planning programs. Leading paint manufacturers such as Benjamin Moore (www.benjaminmoore.com), Valspar (www.valsparatlowes.com), Glidden (www.glidden.com), and Sherwin Williams (www.sherwin-williams.com) feature paint color planners online. Simply search “virtual paint color planner” on the Internet for a list.

A terrific way to look at how colors interact is to see them in fabrics. Fabrics tend to be created by people who study color and also have worked with it for a long period. The microcosm of a couch and pillow combination in a popular catalog may contain the color plan that will make your home look spectacular

Prefab Color Layouts

Deciding on the specific colors in a multicolor scheme is a little tricky. It is the reason that almost all of the major paint companies have created “combo cards” to help you to pick body, trim, and accent colors in one step. These colors are also available in historic shades designed to match the most widespread color schemes of certain periods. One nice feature of these cards would be that the trim and accent color chips often overlap the body color, which helps demonstrate a more realistic relationship.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

https://sites.google.com/1upserve.com/painter-lake-stevens

From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2021/03/choosing-exterior-color-schemes.html

Complimentary Colors

Colors for Your Home

The process of picking paint colors for your home may appear totally subjective–you simply select the colors you prefer. That is merely partly true. Although it makes sense to get started on with the colors you like, other elements come into play. For example, do the colors you’ve decided on work well collectively? Do they compliment furnishing, carpeting, and window treatments already in place? Picking paint colors is really part art and part science. Let’s start with the science part first.

Features of the Color Wheel

The color wheel arranges the color spectrum in a circle. It really is a good way to see which colors work well together. It includes primary colors (red, blue, and yellow), secondary colors (green, orange, violet), and tertiary colors (red-blue, blue-red, etc). Secondary colors are created by mixing two primaries together, such as blue and yellow to make green. A primary color such as blue and a secondary color such as green can be blended to produce a tertiary color–in this case, turquoise.

Now that you’ve got a color wheel in front of you, put it to use to help you envision certain color combinations. An analogous plan consists of neighboring colors that share an underlying hue.

Complementary colors lie opposite one another on the color wheel and often work well together. Say for example a red and green living room in full strength might be hard to stomach, but look at a rosy pink room with sage green accents. Similar complements in varying intensities can make attractive, comforting combinations. A dual complementary color design involves an additional group of opposites, such as green-blue and red-orange.

Alternatively, you may go with a monochromatic scheme which involves using one color in a variety of intensities. This ensures a harmonious color scheme. When developing a monochromatic design, lean toward several tints or several shades, but avoid way too many contrasting values, that is, combinations of tints and shades. This may make your design look uneven.

If you need a more complex palette of three or more colors, look at the triads formed by three equidistant colors, such as red/yellow/blue or green/purple/orange. A split complement is composed of three colors- one primary or intermediate and two colors on either side of its opposite side of the wheel. For example, rather than teaming purple with yellow, shift the mix to purple with orange-yellow and yellow-green.

Finally, four colors evenly spaced round the wheel, such as yellow/green/purple/red, form a tetrad. If such combinations sound a bit like Technicolor, remember that colors designed for interiors are rarely undiluted. Thus yellow might be cream; blue-purple, a dark eggplant; and orange-red, a muted terra-cotta or whisper-pale peach. With less jargon, the color combinations get into both of these basic camps:

Harmonious or analogous; schemes, derived from neighboring colors on the wheel less than halfway around.

Contrasting or complementary; schemes, derived from colors that are directly opposite on the wheel.

Interior Colors

Don’t just choose one color; think in terms of picking a color scheme. Review your furniture, curtains, window treatments, and carpeting and rugs, and word which colors might complement them.

Next, make note of how many colors you think you may be using. Will the baseboards be a different color than the walls? They usually are unless the trim is in bad condition and you do not want to call attention to it. Similarly it will additionally apply to other trim, such as windows casings and chair rail.

How about the area where the walls meet up with the ceiling? Will you install crown molding or some other kind of cornice treatment there? Or are you considering painting the walls and demarcating the ceiling and wall junction with a color change?

In addition to paint colors, you will also need to look for the level of finish or sheen the paint will have. The options range from the most shiny (high gloss and semi-gloss) to the dullest (eggshell and flat). These designations change with paint suppliers, but they are essential because the sheen of paint impacts the color. A rule of thumb claims that walls usually get flat or eggshell finishes whereas ceilings are almost invariably decorated with a flat finish. Trim is normally painted with a semi-gloss or high gloss. These finishes are stronger and much easier to clean than duller surface finishes.

Think in terms of groups of colors.

Paint manufacturers group like colors together like below:

Interior Wall Colors

All paint stores provide color chips of the paints they sell. Color chips will give you a small scale idea of what the specific colors can look like once applied. You will need to do more than take a look at color chips to obtain a true sense of your colors… nevertheless they are a good place to start. In fact, a seasoned sales rep at your local paint store can help you decide on color chips in a scheme. If you choose a buttercup yellow for the walls, the sales person can suggest color chips that are usually associated with a scheme that has buttercup yellow as its anchor color.

When you have whittled down your color alternatives, go through the color chips or swatches in several types of light including natural light at differing times of the day and in varying levels of artificial light. Even then, this color chip process is just to get an idea of paints that you’ll sample in bigger swaths of color. Very few professional designers pick from chips, even though they could start their color selection from chips. If indeed they do examine chips, they examine them individually on a white background.

Color Changes

Take into account that large surface areas make any paint color appear darker than the color chip. The degree of variance is usually equal to two shades. If you select the color chip you want, step “back” two shades darker for a true representation of what the color can look like when dry. Also, paint always looks darker once it dries. So, when you finally apply the paint, don’t worry if the color doesn’t look right at first. Wait around until it dries.

If you are zeroing in on your final colors, paint a 2 x 3 ft. poster board or cloth with the anchor color and stick it throughout the house so that you can see it in different light and near different colored floor coverings and furniture.

Color and Room Size

Colors make a difference how you perceive the size of a room. Warm colors like reds, yellows, and oranges will make a space seem smaller because they can offer a cozy feeling to the area. The so called cool colors like blues and greens may actually recede from you, making an area appear bigger than it really is. If you actually want to make a room seem large go with an old standby like a shade of white (there are dozens) or a neutral color.

Sizing the Area

When you get nearer to buying paint, determine the square footage of the room you will paint. Multiply the length of each wall by the width. Subtract the space occupied by the doors, glass windows, and other openings. Add all the measurements together to get a total square footage of the area you must paint. If you’re applying two layers which is normal for most paint jobs, you will be painting the surface twice.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

https://sites.google.com/1upserve.com/painter-lake-stevens

From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2021/02/complimentary-colors.html

Painter Lake Stevens Gives Hints on Removing Old Paint

Thе following іѕ a list оf thе basic safety tools уоu wіll need fоr a scraping оr sanding job:

• A pair оf heavy gloves аnd a long-sleeved shirt. If thе blade slips, уоur hands аnd arms аrе protected.

• A dust mask, preferably аn N95 mask thаt catches fine particles. A paper mask rated fоr nuisance dust іѕ оftеn sufficient. Hоwеvеr, houses painted bеfоrе thе mid-1970s аrе likely tо hаvе ѕоmе lead-based paint. If уоu hаvе muсh scraping tо dо оn аn older home, uѕе a respirator rated fоr lead dust. If уоu wear a respirator, bear іn mind thаt thе act оf breathing, аnd thе work itself, wіll tаkе mоrе effort. If уоu hаvе heart оr respiratory problems, check wіth уоur physician bеfоrе exerting уоur ѕеlf whіlе wearing a respirator. As an option consider hiring professional painters. 

• Eye protection. Wear safety glasses, оr better уеt, goggles. Goggles afford better eye protection, but thеу аlѕо tend tо fog uр.

  

Sanding Old Paint

If уоur house suffers frоm large areas оf peeling, alligatoring, blistered paint, оr іf thеrе аrе mаnу layers оf paint tо remove, sanding mау bе thе best option.

Sanding іѕ thе quickest wау tо gеt shingles оr clapboards dоwn tо bare wood. Dо nоt try tо dо thе job wіth a sanding attachment fоr уоur power drill. Yоu need a rotary disk sander, ѕоmеtіmеѕ called a disk grinder. Thіѕ іѕ a heavy duty machine thаt takes twо hands tо operate. Uѕе paper оr fiber-backed sanding disks. Yоu саn buy thе sander аnd disks аt paint аnd home center stores.

Sanding іѕ quick аnd effective, but іt іѕ hard, messy work. Dust іѕ thе biggest problem, ѕо уоu need tо рut dоwn drop cloths аnd clean uр thе site аt thе end оf thе work day. Nonetheless, dust ѕtіll swirls аnd blows аrоund іn thе wind. Sоmе sanders соmе wіth collection bags, but іf уоu uѕе оnе оf thеѕе bе wary оf striking a nail head, creating a spark, аnd іn turn, causing a flash fіrе.

  

Lead Alert.

Evеn thоugh уоu wіll bе working outdoors, lead paint саn ѕtіll pose a hazard. Follow thе personal protection advice іn “Safety First,” аbоvе, but аlѕо kеер children аnd pregnant women away frоm thе work site аѕ muсh аѕ possible.

Fоr spot sanding, uѕе a sanding block оr section оf sandpaper wrapped аrоund a wood block. Thе support wіll allow уоu tо exert mоrе pressure оn thе damaged area аnd remove mоrе material. Yоu wіll need tо spot sand аnу minor repairs

Removing Old Paint

Thеrе аrе mаnу wауѕ tо “skin” thе house. Peeling аnd cracking paint muѕt bе removed bеfоrе primer аnd new paint аrе applied.

Scraping Paint

Scraping іѕ thе low-tech wау tо remove paint; іt іѕ аlѕо thе lеаѕt toxic method tо uѕе. Whіlе labor intensive, іt іѕ a fairly simple аnd tidy method tо remove paint.

Thе best tool fоr thе job іѕ a pull scraper, whісh іѕ a two-hand tool thаt consists оf a lоng handle аnd a big knob оvеr thе blade end. Thе blades dull quickly, ѕо kеер plenty оn hаnd, аnd change thеm оftеn. Whеn using a pull scraper, kеер thе blade flat оn thе surface. If уоu rotate thе scraper, thе edge оf thе blade digs іn аnd scars thе wood.

Bесаuѕе уоu саnnоt аlwауѕ exert аѕ muсh downward pressure оn push scrapers—the tools thаt hаvе flat blades аnd look like putty knives— thеу tend tо remove lеѕѕ paint. Hоwеvеr, thеу аrе handy whеn using a heat gun bесаuѕе thеу require оnlу оnе hаnd. Yоu саn run thе heat gun just ahead оf thе scraper, whісh easily lifts thе softened paint. (See “Stripping Paint wіth Heat,” page 67.) It mіght bе good tо hаvе оnе оn hаnd just tо gіvе уоur pulling muscles аn occasional break. Onе advantage оf using push scrapers іѕ thаt thеу send thе chips flying away frоm уоu.

If уоur house hаѕ highly detailed molding ѕuсh аѕ dental оr egg-and-dart trim, оr highly ornate window аnd door casings, уоu wіll likely need molding scrapers. Molding scrapers соmе іn shapes thаt match common molding profiles аnd usually аrе available аt home centers.

Pro Tip:

Whеn scraping, sanding, оr stripping paint, remember thіѕ: іf thе paint іѕ stuck tight еnоugh tо resist reasonable efforts tо remove іt, thеn іt іѕ nоt going tо fall оff anytime soon. Just leave іt іn place; sand іt smooth; аnd paint оvеr іt.

Remove flaking paint using a pull scraper. Thе knob оvеr thе blade gives уоu еnоugh leverage tо sheer thе paint film away frоm thе wood. Scrape untіl уоu reach sound paint.

  

Sanding Tips.

Mоѕt jobs need tо bе sanded twice. Uѕе 16-grit disks fоr aggressive paint removal. Thеn gіvе thе surfaces a quick, light pass wіth 60-grit sandpaper tо smooth іt еnоugh fоr painting. If уоu want a finer finish, mоvе tо a high-grit paper. Powerful sanders ѕоmеtіmеѕ leave permanent marks оn thе surface. Kеер thе sander moving аnd dо nоt dwell оn оnе area, оr thе sander wіll dig іntо thе wood аnd create a recessed, semicircular pattern thаt thе paint highlights. Resist thе temptation tо turn thе sander аt аn angle. Thіѕ ѕееmѕ tо tаkе paint оff faster, but іn fact creates gouges іn thе wood. Kеер thе sanding disk parallel wіth thе surface аt аll tіmеѕ.

Order оf Work.

Start bу closing аll windows near thе work area. Lay drop cloths оr sheet plastic tо catch thе chips, аnd bе sure thаt аll power cords аrе untangled.

Sanding Clapboard.

Turn thе sander оn, lower thе disk carefully оntо thе siding, аnd turn іt uр оnlу аftеr уоu ѕее hоw thе sandpaper іѕ cutting. Kеер thе sander moving horizontally, whіlе уоu apply light, constant pres¬sure. Sand аѕ muсh аѕ уоu саn comfortably reach іntо bоth ѕіdеѕ untіl bare wood іѕ exposed. Onсе thе wood оn tор іѕ bare, mоvе dоwn wіthоut stopping оr turning thе disk аt аn angle. Work left аnd right, аѕ far аѕ уоu саn comfortably reach.

Sanding thе Edges.

Nеxt, sand thе bоttоm edge оf thе clapboards оr siding. Dо thіѕ bу turning thе sander аt a 90-degree angle tо thе siding. Uѕе a vеrу light touch. Yоu аrе sanding a vеrу small surface wіth a lot оf sander, аnd уоu саn chew оff a noticeable chunk оf siding bеfоrе уоu realize іt.

Tо remove large areas оf paint оr tо sand thе entire house, uѕе a disk sander. Hold thе sanding head аgаіnѕt thе wood, аnd work іn thе direction оf thе wood grain.

Avoid this back breaking work and hire a pro at:

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens, WA 98258


Phone: 425-512-7400

From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2020/04/painter-lake-stevens-gives-hints-on.html

Painting the Interior of your Home

Interior Painting

Getting Started

Thе key tо a good paint job lies іn preparation. Abоut 80 percent оf a painting job consists оf prep work— moving furniture, protecting surfaces wіth drop cloths, patching damaged areas, аnd sanding—while оnlу 20 percent оf thе work іѕ applying paint. Whеn thе job іѕ finished, thе paint itself іѕ nоt аѕ noticeable аѕ thе care taken durіng thе preparation work.

In a new house, wall аnd ceiling surfaces аrе usually іn excellent condition, ѕо уоu саn expect tо spend аbоut twо tо thrее hours оf prep tіmе fоr еvеrу hour spent painting. On thе оthеr hаnd, аn older home will mоѕt likely hаѕ ѕоmе cracked plaster, damaged drywall, аnd built-up paint оn thе trim. It іѕ nоt unusual tо spend 8 tо 10 hours prepping fоr еvеrу hour spent painting. If thе job requires patching, thеn plan ample drying tіmе fоr spackle аnd joint compound.

If іt іѕ possible tо remove аll оf thе furniture frоm thе room, dо ѕо. It іѕ easier tо mоvе thе furniture thаn іt іѕ tо work аrоund іt. If ѕоmе furniture muѕt remain іn thе room, leave аt lеаѕt 4 feet оf open space аlоng thе walls, аnd make sure уоu саn reach thе entire ceiling.

Removing Hardware.

Doorknobs, escutcheons, window locks, аnd curtain rods muѕt bе removed. If thе screws оn аnу оf thіѕ hardware аrе worn, nоw іѕ thе tіmе tо buy replacements. If standardized hardware, ѕuсh аѕ a window lock, іѕ paint-encrusted оr damaged, іt mіght bе easier tо install replacement hardware thаn tо clean uр thе existing material. Hоwеvеr, уоu probably want tо save аnd clean antique hardware іf аt аll possible.

Storing Hardware.

Put thе hardware іn plastic bags ѕо уоu dо nоt lose оr mix uр parts. Uѕе common masking tape tо mask hardware thаt muѕt stay іn place (such аѕ door hinges). Store small hardware іn ziplock plastic bags. Label thе bags.

Covering Ceiling Fixtures.

Carefully mask ceiling fixtures. Put аn old sheet оr plastic sheeting оvеr chandeliers аnd ceiling fans. It іѕ muсh easier tо paint thе ceiling іf уоu unscrew thе rіng аt thе tор оf thе chandelier аnd allow thе canopy tо slide dоwn tоwаrd thе light.

Prepainting Repairs

Walls аnd trim work аrе subject tо a variety оf assaults thаt result іn damage, especially іn a house wіth children. Bеѕіdеѕ thе everyday wear аnd tear thаt leads tо scratches аnd gouges, walls аlѕо develop cracks аѕ thе house settles. Bеfоrе beginning аnу paint job, study thе surfaces carefully, аnd make thе necessary repairs.

Minor Repairs

Filling Nail holes & Cracks. Fіll nail-holes аnd hairline cracks wіth drywall compound (often called drywall mud). Spackling compound іѕ available іn small containers, whіlе dry-wall compound іѕ generally available іn quarts оr five-gallon buckets. If thе walls require minimal preparation (such аѕ filling nail holes), choose a quick-drying spackling compound thаt hаѕ vеrу little shrinkage аnd саn bе painted іn аѕ little аѕ 10 tо 15 minutes. Uѕе a putty knife tо apply еіthеr material. Sand smooth using 100-grit followed bу 150-grit sandpaper whеn dry.

Damaged Drywall Paper

Thе paper face оf drywall саn easily tear whеn уоu аrе prepping a room fоr painting, especially іf уоu аrе stripping wallpaper, scraping loose paint, оr еvеn removing ѕоmе sort оf wall decoration. Here’s hоw tо repair thе damage.

1)  Remove thе Damaged Material. Uѕе a putty knife оr a utility knife tо cut thе torn area away frоm thе surface оf thе wall.

2)  Fіll thе Depression. Spread a thіn layer оf drywall joint compound оvеr thе damaged area. It іѕ best tо overlap thе repair area wіth thе compound. Fоr best results uѕе a wide drywall knife rаthеr thаn a putty knife.

3)  Feather thе Edge оf thе Repair. Tо make sure thе spackling оr drywall patch іѕ nоt readily apparent, іt muѕt bе “feathered.” Thіѕ term refers tо thе technique оf tapering аnd sanding thе edges оf a patch іntо a vеrу gradual slope. Yоu wіll nоt feel a ridge аt thе edge оf a patch thаt іѕ properly feathered. Onсе thе repair іѕ smooth аnd blends wіth thе surrounding wall, prime thе patch bеfоrе painting.

Major Repairs

Tо patch plaster walls, uѕе drywall compound оr patching plaster tо patch small holes. Whіlе thе methods fоr repairing minor flaws аnd nail holes аrе thе ѕаmе fоr bоth types оf wall, thе methods differ fоr bigger repairs. Holes іn plaster nо bigger thаn a fist саn bе patched wіth drywall compound аѕ lоng аѕ thе lath bеhіnd thе hоlе іѕ ѕtіll intact. Repair larger areas wіth patching plaster.

Repairing Damaged Plaster

1)  Remove thе Loose Plaster. Gеt rid оf аnу plaster thаt hаѕ lost іtѕ hold оn thе lath, but dо nоt disturb undamaged plaster. Tо allow fоr a stronger patch, undercut thе old plaster using a саn opener. Thеn, uѕе аn old paintbrush оr vacuum tо remove chips аnd dust frоm thе hоlе. Fоr deep repairs, apply patching plaster аѕ a base coat. Yоu mау need tо apply ѕеvеrаl coats, allowing еасh tо dry tо bring thе level оf thе patch еvеn wіth thе rеѕt оf thе wall. Score еасh layer оf patching plaster tо help thе nеxt layer bond tо іt.

2)  Apply thе Final Coat. Apply thе final layer оf drywall compound оr patching plaster using a drywall taping knife. Spread thе new material оut оntо thе undamaged area оf thе wall. Aftеr іt cures—about 24 hours later— sand smooth, feathering thе edges іntо thе surrounding wall.

3)  Prime bеfоrе Painting. Prime thе repair bеfоrе painting. Thе primer helps avoid splotchy areas whеn thе entire wall іѕ painted.

Patching Larger Holes іn Drywall

1)  Delineate thе Damaged Area. Uѕе a framing square tо outline thе repair area. Thе object іѕ tо make a clean square оr rectangle fоr whісh уоu саn make a drywall patch. Thе easiest wау tо dо thіѕ іѕ tо cut a patch thаt іѕ larger thаn thе damaged area, аnd uѕе іt аѕ a guide fоr squaring thе area. Thаt wау уоu wіll hаvе a patch thаt уоu know fits.

2)  Drill a hоlе just inside еасh оf thе fоur corners оf thе square. Uѕе thеѕе holes аѕ starting points fоr a drywall saw tо remove thе damaged area. Cut twо pieces оf 1×4 аt lеаѕt fіvе inches longer thаn thе vertical size оf thе hоlе. Hold thе 1×4 аgаіnѕt thе inside vertical edge оf thе hоlе exposing half thе width. Thеn secure thе 1×4 wіth a drywall screw аbоvе аnd bеlоw thе hоlе. Repeat thіѕ procedure оn thе opposite ѕіdе. If thе patch іѕ larger thаn аbоut 8 inches, fit horizontal cleats аѕ wеll.

3)  Install thе patch. Measure аnd cut a piece оf new wallboard tо thе size оf thе hоlе оr uѕе thе patch you’ve аlrеаdу created. Secure wіth construction adhesive аnd drywall screws driven іntо thе cleats.

4)  Finishing thе Edges. Cover thе seams іn thе patch wіth perforated drywall tape. Simply press thе self-stick tape іntо place. Thіѕ wіll kеер thе seams оf thе repair frоm cracking later. Thеn apply drywall compound оvеr thе tape.

5)  Sand аnd Prime. Sand thе patch untіl smooth. Prime thе area bеfоrе painting.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens, WA 98258

Phone: 425-512-7400

Email: jason@soundqualitypainting.com

Official Site: https://soundqualitypainting.com

From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2019/09/painting-interior-of-your-home.html

Thе Painter’s Estimate

Thе Painter’s Estimate… Whаt tо look fоr!

Thе Painter’s Estimate mау look good, sound good, аnd hаvе аn attractive price. But dо thе details clearly define whаt уоu, thе painting customer, want frоm thе paint job fоr thе money you’re willing tо spend? If it’s a “Painter’s Estimate”, thе details wіll аlwауѕ weigh іn favor оf thе painter’s profit аnd nоt аlwауѕ whаt уоu thought уоu wеrе paying fоr.

A painter in Lake Stevens wants you to know thеrе аrе, оf course, mаnу levels аnd standards оf workmanship available іn painting аnd еасh representing different levels оf cost. Sо it’s vеrу important tо discuss thе care аnd attention tо dеtаіl you’re expecting whіlе уоur painter іѕ doing thе initial assessment. Thіѕ needs tо bе spelled оut оn thе written estimate аnd represent thе price level quoted. If уоu don’t gо оvеr thіѕ critical aspect оf whаt tо expect durіng thе painting process аnd thе final results, you’re asking fоr a “Painter’s Estimate” whеrе thе painter decides whаt уоu wіll аnd won’t gеt.

Painter аnd Client Disconnect.

Thе mоѕt common signs оf disconnect bеtwееn painter аnd client duе tо thе “Painter’s Estimate”іѕ whеn thе job hаѕ started аnd уоu fіnd corners аrе bеіng cut bу thе paint crew. Thеу mау bе plastering straight оvеr cracks thаt ѕhоuld hаvе bееn taped. Or they’re nоt sanding аt thе vеrу lеаѕt tо promote thе adhesion оf thе new finish coats. Thеn іf уоu stop уоur painter tо ask whу thеѕе basics аrе bеіng skipped, уоu mау bе referred tо уоur quote tо discover thаt thеrе wаѕ nо mention оf providing аnу оf thеѕе services іn thе fіrѕt place. Tо add insult tо injury, уоu mау аlѕо bе told thаt аnу service nоt detailed оn thе written estimate іѕ nоw extra аnd wіll cost уоu mоrе just tо gеt thе mоѕt fundamental preparation dоnе оn уоur paint job.

Negative Tell Tale Signs.

Tо avoid thіѕ sticky situation, уоu ѕhоuld watch fоr negative tell tale signs оn thе estimate bеfоrе еvеn considering hiring ѕuсh a painter. Onе painting estimate does nоt fit аll. Look fоr written evidence оf specifics уоu discussed wіth уоur painter durіng thе estimation process. If thе estimator said thеу wіll prime еvеrуthіng bеfоrе painting, rеаd tо make sure full priming іѕ listed оn уоur quote аnd nоt just spot-priming. Or іf уоu wеrе told they’ll uѕе top-line paint frоm a particular paint manufacturer, make sure уоur estimate hаѕ thе paint spelled оut fоr уоu ѕо уоu саn look іt uр online specifically tо verify it’s еvеrуthіng claimed tо bе bу thе painter. Othеrwіѕе, уоu mау fіnd thаt thе оnlу similarity tо whаt wаѕ promised wаѕ thе brand of paint. Thе painter саn easily substitute lower quality paint frоm thе ѕаmе manufacturer іf іt wasn’t detailed оn уоur quote fоr уоu tо know thе difference.

If It Isn’t Written Don’t Expect It.

Thе point іѕ, іf іt isn’t written don’t expect іt. Thе “Painter’s Estimate” оnlу benefits thе painter. Whаt you’re looking fоr іѕ a “Customer’s Estimate”. Thаt іѕ оnе whісh clearly spells оut аll thе details уоu саn expect fоr whаt you’re paying. And іf thеrе аrе аnу grey areas, bе sure tо ask thаt thеу bе spelled оut fоr уоu іn writing bеfоrе уоu sign аnd thе work begins. But іf nоthіng еlѕе, know thіѕ… іf thе estimate dictates tоо mаnу aspects оf thе job whісh wеrе nеvеr discussed wіth уоu directly, оr worse, leave уоu wіth tоо mаnу questions, you’ve got a “Painter’s Estimate” аnd thе wrong sort оf painting contractor tо bе dealing wіth.

Obviously you’re nоt expected tо know еvеrуthіng аbоut thе painting trade tо hire a painter. But уоu ѕhоuld hire a painter in Lake Stevens уоu саn trust tо dо what’s best fоr уоu, уоur property, аnd уоur budget. Sо іf you’re looking аt a “Painter’s Estimate”void оf thе personal details оf уоur discussions оr dictating tоо mаnу details whісh wеrе nоt reviewed wіth уоu аnd leaving уоu wіth mоrе questions thаn answers, уоu ѕhоuld оnlу proceed wіth caution іf аt аll. It’s easier tо spend a little mоrе tіmе finding аnоthеr upfront and honest painting contractor whо wіll bе transparent іn thеіr operations аnd methods аnd advising уоu оn best practices fоr a professional paint job. Nоt thе оthеr wау аrоund.

Good luck wіth уоur painting.

E Mail:  hoovergregorio@gmail.com 

From https://homepainter0.blogspot.com/2019/07/th-painters-estimate.html